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Introduction to Chinatown

The original Chinese town centred on Market Square. As the population grew, expansion was constrained by swamps, hills and the river. High Street, now known as Jalan Tun HS Lee, became increasingly popular as it was higher than the rest of the town and therefore less prone to floods.

Kuala Lumpur was a typical "pioneer" town at the turn of the century, filled with a rough and tough population that was largely male. Men who could afford it spent most of their leisure time in the brothels, opium dens or gambling booths. For entertainment, there was Chinese wayang (opera) or bangsawan (Malay theatre).

There was the continuing problem of maintaining law and order. Up to his death in 1885, Kapitan Cina Yap Ah Loy, who owned much of the land in this area, was responsible for maintaining peace, but was not given money or manpower to discharge his duty. Left to his own devices, he made use of the secret society's coercive power. This system itself created disorder with outbreaks amongst rival gangs. After the 1890s, civil unrest was curtailed with the set-up of British security forces.

The Chinese leaders provided for the community through associations, benevolent societies, temples and foundations. Through these organizations, free lodging, work, contact with China, education, medical and funerary needs were facilitated. Given the practice of venerating the ancestors, a sense of security was provided against the horrors of dying outside the motherland, which the Chinese believed left their spirits wandering.

The wealthier and more ornate shophouses were built north of Jalan Cheng Lock, closer to the business centre. Simpler shophouses were built in this area, which is now popularly called Chinatown. Although undergoing rapid transition, Chinatown still has a number of functioning shophouses, with the business operating in the "shops" on the ground floor and residents living in the "houses" upstairs.

Click the map below to view a larger version



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